Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Stable Dissatisfaction

hey all,

In an earlier post, I said that only 3 things got me down: no girlfriend, bad job, bad apartment. Well, now that 1 of those things looks like it might not be an issue any longer, my dissatisfaction with the other 2 seems to have increased. After all, my job and my apartment actually make it inconvenient to see Michi. Even assuming our thing doesn't work out, I'm still stuck with a room the size of a large bathroom stall, and an unfulfilling job where I work with boring, unhelpful people teaching English to disinterested apathetic students.

It is almost as if the 3 things that GMD formed a triangle: the simplest, most stable and strongest structural shape. When I had 3 things that GMD, they didn't jar against anything else, but just maintained their shape. Now that one of the struts is gone, I've got these two loose ends that clash, jangle, and make a nuisance of themselves.

These last days, I've been putting in more job applications, but most of these are hopeless: some have over 1000 applicants. I've even asked my coordinator if the Company has any openings for office workers near Tokyo. Although I'd still be with the same company, I wouldn't have to deal with the teaching environment (or lack thereof) of Japan.

The photo shoot for that modeling gig is tomorrow, but I'm not going because my ankle has been bugging me again recently (I stupidly agreed to run in a race on sports day, and of course I ran seriously and now my ankle hurts again), and now I have a pretty bad cold or flu or something to go with it.

Anyway, it looks like Michi and I actually have a date this Saturday afterall, which brings my mood up.

Cheers,

Sunday, September 27, 2009

School Sports Day and Date

hey all,

Yesterday was my school sports festival day, so I had to come into work on a Saturday. The nice thing is that I get Monday off. Not too amazingly interesting, but kinda nice because I got paid for coming in and being a spectator.

So those who talked to me after my Ogawayama trip know that I asked Michi on a date. She said yes. Originally, we were planning to see a movie, but we ended up going to a famous monjayaki shop on Tsukishima island. Monjayaki is kinda difficult to describe: at each table in the restaurant, there is a hotplate where your monjayaki is fried. A waiter will bring the ingredients to your table, mix them, and pour them onto the hotplate. You then take some small scrapers, and mix it up while it cooks. The result is kinda like a runny omellete, and looks a little like vomit, and tastes incredible.

I had a really good time, and we'll be going on another date in a couple weeks (she's really busy, plus we live an hour away from each other). I'd like to do a climbing trip with just the two of us, but we'll see.

Cheers,

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Oh! Oh! Ogawayama!

hey all,

Wow what a vacation! I just got back from my camping/rock climbing trip to Ogawayama. Getting there itself was quite the adventure. I got up slightly later than I intended, and missed first my local train into Shinjuku, then just missed the express train as it was starting to pull away from the station. Like an idiot, I ran after it for 20 or 30 feet with my 20kg bag full of tent, sleeping bag, climbing gear and food. It certainly wasn't how I envisioned the trip beginning.

I caught the next train, which was full of people with similar ideas as me and my companions: getting out of Tokyo for a few days, so I got to stand for the first 1.5 hours. I met up with Patrick and Ayako from the outdoor club at the next major stop, and we arrived at Shinano-kawakami (try saying that 3 times fast) together. After that, we took a bus to get closer to the campsite, but were still about 45-60 minutes away. We walked about 1 km, and then hitchhiked the last leg in the back a service vehicle. After arriving in the campsite, setting up camp, we went out to find some climbing places.

From Ogawayama


I said in my last post that Ogawayama is the premier climbing spot in Japan, and there is good reason for that: there is tons of rock, everywhere you look. Only some of it is bolted, and some used to be in good shape, but now features rusty bolts or rock covered with moss and fungus, making it unclimbable unless you are spider-man. And for beginners like two of the people on the trip, and even for people with experience (but still lacking certain skills or strength like me or Patrick), there are maybe only 30-40 routes that are real options, which is still twice the number of most other places. The problem for us that first day, and in fact everyday, was finding which areas featured good climbing for us, and actually finding those areas.

Unlike Yugawara, Great Falls, or even Harrisonburg, the climbing areas of Ogawayama are spread over 20-30sq km, so just getting from the campsite to a likely climbing spot often proved difficult. Sometimes we'd walk past the entrance of a climbing trail, or end up farther downstream or upstream of our intended climbing spot.

Anyway, continuing the day's trend of misfortune, on the very first climb (a lead 5.11, by the way), I fell while trying to reach the 4th bolt and twisted my ankle. Later in the day on a different rock, I fell while trying to lead a 5.10d and twisted the same ankle. Although it hurt, it didn't seem too bad, so when we finally found a nice 5.8, I climbed that with no problems. By the time we got back to the camp, I could barely walk and was almost crying from the pain. I was afraid I had broken my ankle, and I couldn't remember any sprain that had hurt that much. The worst I've done to my legs is hyper-extend my knees a few times, but that shuts you down immediately. I've never had an injury that felt OK while I was using it, then suddenly starts hurting when you aren't using that body part anymore.

I soaked my ankle in the bathroom sink in cold water for 30 minutes, took 800mg of Ibuprofen, and wrapped it in the remains of an old T-shirt which I sacrificed for my ankle.

The next morning I still had a limp, but I could walk, so I went with Patrick and Ayako to a beginner's rock 2km from the camp down a road. They both climbed 4-5 times each on slightly different routes before I felt comfortable climbing on my ankle. No falls, and only slight pain. We then went back to camp to meet another member who had decided to arrive a day late. (Actually, we ate lunch, and unsuccessfully tried to find another climbing spot, then came back to met her.) By then, it was 4PM and we went back to the beginner's rock before returning to camp and making dinner. I believe it was that evening that a Japanese man and woman approached me and asked if I'd like to be a model. Yes, me a model. The guy said he was an assistant photographer for a magazine, and they were looking for experienced climbers to shoot for a climbing theme. Anyway, I gave him my contact info, so we'll see. The pay sounds good, but it is during my normal working hours. I could actually skip my normal work, be a model for a day, and still come out ahead, but not by very much.

From Ogawayama


So ended our second day of rock climbing. Our 3rd day was amazing. We headed for a spot which someone in the camp office had said was good for beginners and climbed the hell out of it. We began with Gama Slab, a long-ish stretch of rock that has a heavy less-than-vertical tilt to it, so with good climbing shoes you're basically walking up a steep incline. Still fun, but not very challenging. Right next to that, there were about 10-15 more routes, 5-6 of which we attempted, including a tricky lead 5.10a-d(can't remember the exact grade) and a freakishly long and dirty lead 5.10a. The lead 5.10a was 30m long, and we had a 60m rope: just enough to let me come down from the top. I led both of those climbs, and established anchors at the top so Patrick, Ayako, and Michi could top-rope them. We lost Ayako that day, as she had to return to Tokyo, so it was down to 3 again.

The final day, we went to a spot near Gama Slab which Patrick and I had scouted the previous day. There was only one route that looked doable, so we did it. Patrick found access to the top from the backside, and set up a top-rope for us. This was really nice, because I don't think I could have led it, at least not the first time.

Below is a video of me climbing it (5.10a-ish) for the 4th and last time. When Patrick says "Nice move" that is because I just made a nice move: the hand holds in that area are not very big and not very comfortable to hold, and I practically did a pull-up on them. This is probably the most fun route that I climbed: not so difficult that I couldn't even start/finish it, but challenging enough that it is interesting and I can feel a pleasant ache in my arms afterwards.



After that, we returned to Gama slab and climbed one of the routes which was occupied for the whole time we had climbed there the previous day, and I led that climb, so the others could top-rope it. After that, Michi and I closed down camp, and hitchhiked all the way back to the station with this retired science teacher who first took us to his house and gave us coffee and lettuce, in addition to giving us a geological history of the area, which is apparently known as the Japanese Yosemite.




Above: Michi and I eating raw carrots on the train. I guess most Japanese people think eating raw carrot is weird, but we like it.

So that was my trip to Ogawayama.

Cheers,

Friday, September 18, 2009

Still kicking

hey all,

So not much new at school, at least not much that I care to post about right now. More to come probably next week.

Please don't despair if I don't post anything new, or reply to emails for the next 5 days or so. I will be camping/rock climbing/hiking in Ogawayama, which is the premier climbing spot in all of Japan. This website has tons of info on it.

We've got the organizer and myself there for the full 5 days, plus at least 2 people there for 2-4 days, so it should be another great trip.

Pictures and travelogue when I get back.

Cheers,

Monday, September 14, 2009

Yugawara Climbing

hey all,

Yesterday I went rock climbing in Yugawara. This is a pretty cool outdoor location, because it is very easy to access from Tokyo, and you can actually use public transport to get to the rock.

From Tokyo, you just take the Tokaido line towards Odawara, and get off at Yugawara station. From there, you need to go to Maku-yama koen: you can take a taxi, or take a bus (number 3, I believe, to Kajiya; from the bus you have a 30 minute walk to the park).

Anyway, we had 6 people come, which was actually maybe 1 or 2 too many, but it was really fun. The rock was busy, so there was a lot of waiting, and all 6 of us were used to climbing in the gym, so at first we were all pretty clumsy on the wall. One of the biggest differences between gym climbing and outdoor climbing is placement. In the gym, everything is brightly colored and it is obvious where your hands and feet can go. Outdoors, everything looks like rock, and you will spend a good part of each climb exploring the rock for good hand holds, and convincing yourself that a 1cmX3cm slip of rock is a good place for one of your feet.
Michi (belaying), Daniel (smiling), and Patrick (climbing)

Michi and Ayako

Me: leading a 5.10c. Easy enough to get to where I am, but after that it is painful. Patrick somehow made me look dramatic up there, but I felt really clumsy.

That day was my second time leading a climb outdoors, technically speaking. The first time, my brother and I were climbing near Harrisonberg, Virginia, and I successfully made it to the first bolt before chickening out. I was literally shaking with fear when I came down. At Maku-yama, I'd been leading climbs in the gym for 3 weeks, and I lead almost every climb I tried.

Some Japanese Climbing Terms:
oriru - let me down
noborimasu - climbing

Hopefully, this long weekend will feature good weather and more rock climbing. One possible trip is a 5 day camping/climbing visit to Ogawayama, which is one of the top climbing spots in Japan.

Cheers,

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Blog List

hey all,

I've added a blog list to my sidebar. If you scroll down, you'll be able to check out some other blogs by ALTs here in Japan. I won't vouch for the child friendliness of their blogs, but they've been a good source of entertainment, information on places to go, and also moral support.

Enjoy,

End of Week Two

hey all,

So I've finished my second week of work after summer vacation. About as interesting as the first week, except I did actually teach some classes this time.

Last night was a Friday, and there was a social night for the outdoor club and I decided I'd go to that. Really great time: a bunch of the people I've been climbing with showed up, and one of the more knowledgeable people has organized an outdoor climbing trip this Sunday, so we spent a lot of time drinking and talking about what equipment to bring, who'd be coming, etc. I've been waiting for this for quite a while, and it rocks that it is finally happening.

Only downside was I had to catch the Keihein-Tohoku line back to Omiya from Shimbashi (one of the wards in Tokyo). This is the slowest train I've ever ridden on. The "rapid" K-T train is two minutes faster than the regular one: it only skips 2 stops, but I got stuck with the slow version, and it took over an hour to get back home. Since it was the last train of the evening, all the drunk salarymen, housewives, college and high school punks etc, all crowded onto it. The concept of personal space really doesn't exist in situations like that.

Anyway, today is laundry day, and I've got bags to pack for climbing tomorrow.

Cheers,

Monday, September 07, 2009

Climbing and School

hey all,

So I survived my first week back at school. Not too much happened: I graded some tests, made some worksheets, edited a few speeches, and prepared some lessons plans. I had no classes, as my 3rd year students were in Kyoto, and the 2nd and 1st year students were taking a special test.

That surprised me a little: my 3rd year teacher invited me to come along on their trip back in May, then the next thing I know they're leaving without me. Oh well. Just one more thing added to the long list of things I don't like about my job or the people I work with.

On the up side, I went indoor rock climbing again this past Sunday, and started the day off with 4 5.10 climbs: 2 top rope, and 2 lead. After that, I only did a few 5.9's, and 5.8's, as my forearms were already shot. Somehow, I always manage to bash my right knee (never the left knee) on the wall somewhere. Below you see the latest bruise, plus some older ones healing.

One of the people I climbed with might try to organize a rock climbing trip outdoors sometime soon, and I've started trying to find some more info on places to climb as well. I realize I've been saying this for months now, but it seems like it could actually happen. The German guy who's been teaching me to lead climb says he'll come, and the potential organizer has her own rope and gear, so between the 3 of us, we have 3 harnesses, 3 pairs of shoes, a lot of 'biners, 12 quickdraws, 4 lengths of webbing, and 2 ropes (no partridge in a pear tree, though). If we can get the French guy to come, we can add 2 harnesses, another pair of shoes, another rope, and more 'biners. Having extra shoes and harnesses is important, since the group of hardcore climbers seems to be pretty small: the beginners often don't have their own gear yet.

I've even found some topos (diagrams showing what climbing routes an area has, where anchors and bolts are, and the difficulty of the routes) for a few places, and it looks like there are at least 3 OK crags within 3 hours of Tokyo.

One of the problems is access though. Even for places close to Tokyo, sometimes it is impossible to get to the crag except by car. So having to rent a car drives (haha) the cost of a trip up.

Another Japanese jelly product: grape jelly in a tin can: it says "futte futte jelly," which I think means "shake shake jelly." How much you shake it determines the consistency: shake it a lot and it is smooth, a little and it is still somewhat chunky. Tasty either way.

Still single, and still seemingly surrounded by an endless number of happy twosomes. Another ALT offered to hook me up with one of his girlfriend's friends who already has 3 boyfriends. Sounds like a keeper, doesn't she?

I got woken up again around 4 or 5AM a few days ago by what I think was another mild Earthquake. This kinda pisses me off. I'd really like for there to be no ground-shaking, or at least properly scheduled ground-shaking that doesn't interfere with my sleep cycle.

Again, for all my complaining, I don't think I'd hop at the chance to go back to the US right away, and forget going back to Holland. I can really say that my job, my guesthouse, and my lack of girlfriend are the only things that get me in the dumps here. I continue to meet cool people, mostly through the outdoor club, but sometimes at the bars. I've got to rock climbing every weekend for the last month, and might get to go outdoors soon. I've climbed Mt. Fuji, and seen so many amazing things in under 6 months. I can't even believe that it's been almost 6 months already. Before I came here, I thought I might have problems with the food, but except for 2 dishes, even really cheap food has been absolutely delicious.

What it boils down to is that I'm a shy person in a country full of shy people, and also a foreigner in a country where foreigners have never received a warm welcome: of course it's hard to meet people. I've got an entry level job that anyone fresh out of high school could do: they require a college degree, but I've even got an MA on top of that, so of course I feel dissatisfied with my job. I've gone from a 2-story townhouse, to my parents' spacious basement to a room slightly larger than a public restroom stall: of course I don't like my room. Getting what you want is nice, but without some problems along the way, you never appreciate it when you finally get it.

Hmm. So that's how I think I'm going to sum up my first 6 months in Japan. Setting up the obstacles that will be overcome in the months to come.

Cheers,

Wednesday, September 02, 2009

I Resemble That Remark...

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Tuesday, September 01, 2009

Return to School

hey all,

As usual, after a long break I forgot to bring my bike key with me, so I had to run most of the way to school in order to make it in time. I should probably just sew it onto myself, but given Japan's attitude towards more mundane body modification like tattooing and piercing, I'm sure that would be even worse.

Other than that, it was a very laid back day. I caught up with a few teachers, proofread some students' speeches for a contest, and made a worksheet about weather. The rest of the time, I studied Japanese.

Cheers,